He llevado mi gesita al mecanica pues de vez en cuando y en urbano solo se me encendia la luz de la temperatura. Tambien se me ponia enseguida el ventilador , la priemra vez que me paso le comprobo y de agua iba a tope ( en el vaso), el mecanico me echo una poquito de agua directamente al radiador ( muy poca pq llevaba) y dejo de hacerlo. Al cabo de un mes me lo ha vuelto a hacer y la he llevado. El mecanico me ha dicho que me pierde un poco de la bomba y me vacia un poco el radiador y por eso se me encendia la luz. Ahora mismo me está haciendo el presupuesto , me ha dicho q cambiará terenes , y el ejej con las aspas que va todo junto mi pregunta es ¿ Cuanto me va a costar la broma? Es un putada pq me lo ha hechoi alos dos meses de comprarla yo de 2º mano. ¿ Esto es muy caro?
Bomba de agua gesita
- Autor rubenbuzo
- Fecha de inicio
Hola, inserto a continuacion un ladrillete que inserté en la pagina americana f650 sobre un fallo en bomba que repare yo mismo.
Saludos
Hi all,
As I wrote in other post, days ago i noticed water through the weephole (at the beginning I tought that could be a casting problem :? ). I had to make the decission of doing it by myself or taking my bike to a bmw dealer paying more than 80 Euro/Hour, what I did not like at all.
I recognise that thanks to the contribution of so many f650 users around the world, via FAQ section, finally i decided to go through and doing it by myself; print-out the entire related FAQ and let's go for it.
Checking the list of tools required, lots of newspaper for waste, some old tank for oil/water waste, replacing beer, and many many crossing fingers (i use to rush myself a little bit too much and this is no good for this kind of operations, even more when it is the first time...).
My experience and conclussions:
1) Checking the thermostat: If you disassemble it, it could be difficult to fit it in again mainly due to the o-ring room is really tight.
I made a PVC 38mm cylinder spacer in order to use a manual clamp and to do the effort axially not damaging the radiator. Here's the pic:
2) Opinion about the waterpump system:
- ROLLING SUPPORT SYSTEM: I don't like a steel shaft turning at high speed with only aluminum housing, in both internal and intermediate cases.
I would have preferred synthered bearings rather than directly the aluminum engine housing!
- QUALITY OF SHAFT: For me it is OK
- SEALINGS: Both sealings are similar (same part), and i do not know if they are suitable for sealing oil (pretty sure yes) and water (pretty sure NO!)
Housing space for both sealings is 15.3 mm and shoulder-shoulder thickness of both sealings is the same:
Seals housing:
Then, no free space for weeping hole access from the inner side; I think that when water comes out drop by drop it is due to the water pressure trying to find any way to come out, but there is no direct access to the shaft through the weeping hole.
I measured with a thin element as indicated in FQA and I measured 29 mm; not possible to touch the shaft (also, it is not radial to the shaft but tangential...)
3) Analisys of the parts:
- The shaft is OK in oil side contact area (good lubrication), and NG (not good) in water side; it is heavily marked, I think that due to no lubrication --> higher lip temperature --> local hardness --> wear of the shaft:
- Sealing oil side I think it is OK; diameter was 9,78 mm (taking into account that measuring rubber hole with a caliper is not truly accurate :mrgreen: :
You see that the aspect of rubber is healthy and good colour :mrgreen:
- Sealing water side it is clearly NG; diameter was 10,12 mm (same note as above :mrgreen: ); I could clearly see the light b'ween the sealing and the shaft; definitively bad part; I also noticed, even being the same part as the oil side, that the rubber was like over heated and something like "blowed-up"; also, the aspect of the rubber aditives such like talcum powder was more present than in the oil-side one:
You see that rubber looks like being blown and expanded ... hard life for it
4) Conclussions:
- I am looking for sealings in different material for both sides water/oil; I have found some alternative from Freudemberg (german brand) in FKM material (rated to 150ºC and water compatible) and I'll contact them on monday.
Saludos
Hi all,
As I wrote in other post, days ago i noticed water through the weephole (at the beginning I tought that could be a casting problem :? ). I had to make the decission of doing it by myself or taking my bike to a bmw dealer paying more than 80 Euro/Hour, what I did not like at all.
I recognise that thanks to the contribution of so many f650 users around the world, via FAQ section, finally i decided to go through and doing it by myself; print-out the entire related FAQ and let's go for it.
Checking the list of tools required, lots of newspaper for waste, some old tank for oil/water waste, replacing beer, and many many crossing fingers (i use to rush myself a little bit too much and this is no good for this kind of operations, even more when it is the first time...).
My experience and conclussions:
1) Checking the thermostat: If you disassemble it, it could be difficult to fit it in again mainly due to the o-ring room is really tight.
I made a PVC 38mm cylinder spacer in order to use a manual clamp and to do the effort axially not damaging the radiator. Here's the pic:
2) Opinion about the waterpump system:
- ROLLING SUPPORT SYSTEM: I don't like a steel shaft turning at high speed with only aluminum housing, in both internal and intermediate cases.
I would have preferred synthered bearings rather than directly the aluminum engine housing!
- QUALITY OF SHAFT: For me it is OK
- SEALINGS: Both sealings are similar (same part), and i do not know if they are suitable for sealing oil (pretty sure yes) and water (pretty sure NO!)
Housing space for both sealings is 15.3 mm and shoulder-shoulder thickness of both sealings is the same:
Seals housing:
Then, no free space for weeping hole access from the inner side; I think that when water comes out drop by drop it is due to the water pressure trying to find any way to come out, but there is no direct access to the shaft through the weeping hole.
I measured with a thin element as indicated in FQA and I measured 29 mm; not possible to touch the shaft (also, it is not radial to the shaft but tangential...)
3) Analisys of the parts:
- The shaft is OK in oil side contact area (good lubrication), and NG (not good) in water side; it is heavily marked, I think that due to no lubrication --> higher lip temperature --> local hardness --> wear of the shaft:
- Sealing oil side I think it is OK; diameter was 9,78 mm (taking into account that measuring rubber hole with a caliper is not truly accurate :mrgreen: :
You see that the aspect of rubber is healthy and good colour :mrgreen:
- Sealing water side it is clearly NG; diameter was 10,12 mm (same note as above :mrgreen: ); I could clearly see the light b'ween the sealing and the shaft; definitively bad part; I also noticed, even being the same part as the oil side, that the rubber was like over heated and something like "blowed-up"; also, the aspect of the rubber aditives such like talcum powder was more present than in the oil-side one:
You see that rubber looks like being blown and expanded ... hard life for it
4) Conclussions:
- I am looking for sealings in different material for both sides water/oil; I have found some alternative from Freudemberg (german brand) in FKM material (rated to 150ºC and water compatible) and I'll contact them on monday.
R
Ramesses
Invitado
Yo se la he cambiado dos veces y (hace unos años) la broma en conce oficial costaba unos 120 euros, piezas y mano de obra.
Por suerte no es una reparación muy cara porque las piezas son simples y la bomba está muy accesible.
Por otro lado es una de las averías más frecuentes en esta moto, la refirgeración es un sistema un poco crítico y suele fallar tarde o temprano, por el problema de los retenes de la bomba, o poros en el radiador principalmente. También hay que revisar a menudo el tapón del radiador, ya que hace de válvula y puede obstruirse.
Saludos
Por suerte no es una reparación muy cara porque las piezas son simples y la bomba está muy accesible.
Por otro lado es una de las averías más frecuentes en esta moto, la refirgeración es un sistema un poco crítico y suele fallar tarde o temprano, por el problema de los retenes de la bomba, o poros en el radiador principalmente. También hay que revisar a menudo el tapón del radiador, ya que hace de válvula y puede obstruirse.
Saludos
Bueno , es menos de lo q pensaba aunque 130 euros duelen , las piezas unos 60 Euros , mas bla bla bla total como muxo me han dicho 130 euros , la bomba mas poner a punto la cadena. Por suerte no ha tenido calenton alguno pues solo se me encendio un par de veces al rodar desaparecia el testigo. Gracias por este foro.